Czech please!

This was a travel day from Rzeszów Poland to Brno, Czech Republic. We started out by getting off at the wrong train station in Krakow and had to take a taxi back to the other one.

Fortunately, we had plenty of time to do that.

On this leg of our journey we sat with a gentleman, Peter, from New Zealand. He is taking two years to travel around the world.

On the train had a nice bottle of

Velké Popovice  |  Kozel Černy  |  Lager, Dark  |  3.8  |  7.8

At the station in Bohumin finally ate something, and had a real Budweiser.

Budvar Budweiser   |  Budvar 10 classic  |  Lager, Pilsner, Czech  |  4.0?  |  9.0

We didn’t have Czech money yet and our bankcard card didn’t work at the station’s food stop. So the young lady working the cafe for a HUGE tip because she didn’t have any change for the 50 Euros and we needed to get to the platform.

Our taxi driver spoke English well, which was a nice surprise. He had worked in Manitoba Canada for decades. We arrived at another brewery hotel Pegas Bruno.

The food was awesome! 

As were the beers.

Pegas   |  Ležák svētly  |  Lager, Pale  |  ?  |  10.0

Pegas   |  Pegas Oatmeal Stout 13°  |  Ale, Stout, Oatmeal  |  5  |  7.5

Pegas   |  Pegas Gold 16°  |  Lager, German Dark, Dunkel  |  ?  |  7.5  [#9,916]

Waiter, bring me the “czech” - you’ve never heard that one, right?

No sir, I am laughing quite hard inside.

We went out in the town near the hotel and stopped, stopped and had some wine.

The Incomparable Count Potocki

Today was much less of a beer day, as opposed to a sightseeing day. We started out and went to see Count Potocki (po-TUT-ski).

Well, actually his family castle/estate. He lived near Rzeszów in Łańcut, Poland.

The castle gives one an idea of why my grandmother came to America. Back in the early 1900s, there was no middle class in Poland. You either were a Serf, the lowest of the low. Slightly higher up – such as her family - were land-owning famers. Still poor, also dirt-poor in many cases. Then the merchant/banker class, who were very wealthy. Then nobility. That was it.

Typically you were born into whatever role life gave you. A Serf could not aspire to nobility. Unless you went to America.

We also tried to find Łańcut brewery, but it apparently merged with another and relocated.

We did find Polmos Łańcut SA in Łańcut  a vodka distillery and museum. What was not clear was that to see the museum was groups of 10 or more only, with 15 days notice. So we only saw the shop that sells spirits.

Went to see the dam and lake at Solina, stopping on the way at Karczma Pod Semaforem, a great little food spot with a railway museum, at Bachórz 16 a, 36-065 Bachórz, Poland. Some great pierogis.

Only had 1 new beer this day (fancy bottle though):

Staropolski    |   Bestbier Piwo Bez soku Męski Lager    |   Lager, Amber   |   6.1   |   7.0

The dam at Solina was an example of Soviet engineering, crude, thick, but sturdy.

At the end of the trip, we shared gifts with Josef, and maybe we will see him in the future.

Next day – onward to Czech Republic.

Best Day Ever - for real

Years ago on a Belgian beer tour, I had given that day the appellation of “best day ever.”
I was wrong. Not even close.

Not by a longshot.

We were met by our driver Joseph, and the adventure began. Today we went to the village and property that my grandmother lived in Poland until she legally immigrated to the US in 1913, as a 15-year-old girl; sponsored by her brother. The house is gone, although my cousin, who found the address two years ago, did get us pictures. The gravel area is where the house used to stand.

Very moving to stand where your ancestors once did, and think of the enormity of leaving your family behind, forever.

A few yards away was the stream she talked about bringing the cows to drink.

We also saw the church she was part of (it was under renovations) and a cemetery that family might be buried in.

We then went to Skansen - an ethnographic village - which shows what a Polish village/ buildings were like from the 1800s (similar to Sturbridge Village in Massachusetts in the USA).

Misread the menu and had tripe soup; but you know what – I have a new favorite soup I think. Also had a

Grupa Żywiec  |  Zywiec  |  Lager, Pilsner, Bohemian  |  ?  |  5.0

It’s was interesting to see the way of life at that time.

Now, to put on the “beer fan” hat, this is what being a beer fan means - contacting and stopping in to the nascent Lasowiak brewery in Jezone Poland; not even fully operational, but welcomed us with open arms. And opened bottles!

Had this beer, which is a good version of an American Pale Ale, but with a subtle note of Earl Grey tea.

Lasowiak Rzemieślniczy   |  Krawaciarz  |  Ale, IPA, American  |  5.4  |  7.5

We really wish them the best, and may be back next year – can you say “Polish brewery tour”?

The highlight of our day was when our driver, Josef, brought us to his home. He showed us his car and motorcycle collection (which remands me of our sons’ car and motorcycle collection) and his wife, Josephine, served us a delicious meal and showed us great hospitality.

It started with some ham and bean soup – which was a meal in and of itself. But then it was cucumbers, potatoes, and pork cutlets, and cherry preserves on bread for dessert. Millennials in the USA speak of “farm to table” as the style of the day: in Poland it is all “farm to table” – the cherries came from the tree next to the house, the cucumbers and potatoes from their garden, etc.

During dinner had the

Lasowiak Rzemieślniczy   |  Kosiarz  |  Ale, Wheat, Hefeweizen  |  5.5  |  7.9

We conversed about family, hobbies, politics and life using Polish, English, French and Google Translate.  We left very full and having new friends.

Later that afternoon, back at the hotel, went to the Wojkówka Browaru brewpub. Beers were not the best, but regardless, ticked off the monumental beer #9,900.

Wojkówka Browaru  |  Wojkówka AIPA  |  Ale, IPA, American  |  4.5  |  6.0   [9,900]

Wojkówka Browaru  |  Pszenica Bamburg  |  Ale, Wheat, Hefeweizen  |  5  |  7.0

Wojkówka Browaru  |  Summer  |  Ale, Belgian  |  5  |  6.0

Tried to find another beer bar or brewery, but it appeared to have changed ownership. And beer. Only had a

Żywiec  |  Białe  |  Ale, Wheat, Hefeweizen  |  4.9  |  6.5

But scored a goal or three!

Later in the early evening, found the Lord Jack bar. Besides a comprehensive tap list, they also had one of – if not the best – beer menus I’ve ever seen, as far as detail.

Shared the following

Pinta   |  Kwas Lambda  |  Ale, Wheat, Sour  |  4  |  8.5

Pinta   |  Banana Stout Grand Prix  |  Ale, Stout, Fruit  |  4  |  6.5

Szpunt Rzemieślmiczy  |  Galaxon   |  Ale, IPA, Lactose  |  6  |  8.5

Revolta  |  Acid Sour Currant  |  Ale, IPA, Sour   |  4.8  |  7.9

Piwojad  |  Single Citrus Smoothie  |  Ale, IPA, American  |  5.6  |  7.5

Piwojad  |  Himbeerweizen  |  Ale, Wheat, Smoked  |  5  |  8.0

Podziemie  |  Double Ego  |  Ale, IPA, Double  |  8.4  |  8.5   [9,910]

BTW – if I told you how much these beers - plus a generous bowl of frites – cost, you would faint.

The back bar of the Lord Jack had a glass ceiling, which appeared to be one piece of glass or Plexiglas, which seemed impossible.

They also have a special version of Jack Daniels which is only bottled for special bars like this, a double impossibility. Our server gave us the “5-Zloty tour” and this place is lie a rabbit warren, with a hidden patio, basement, and private dining rooms. May have to go back for dinner this evening.

Tomorrow is a long train ride from Rzeszów Poland to Brno, Czech Republic. And another brewery hotel.

What Would Stalin or Hitler Have Done?

Today was a partial travel day, so as such some time was lost just waiting on the train, and traveling from Częstochowa to Rzeszów, via Krakow Poland.

Almost didn’t make it, while walking then trotting towards the Class 1 carriage, the conductor indicted it was “time to board”: got on 4 cars back and had to schlep to the back, made it okay.

Sat in a section with two young gents, it turned out they were from Ukraine, and worked writing code for some other companies; one based in the USA. We had a nice chat about history and Europe and the changes over the last few decades beginning with the fall of the Berlin Wall.’’

It was a great conversation, and they understood the USA’s concept of why the 2nd Amendment exists. It was posited if Germans or Russians had had guns back in the day, would the Czar or Stalin or Hitler have done what they did? The general consensus was “no”.

Had but one beer on the train; the funny part was after I paid, the girl behind the counter explained it could only be consumed in the dining car. How non-German!

Okocim   |   Dunkel   |   Lager, German Dark, Dunkel   |   5.3   |   7.5

Arrived in Rzeszów (pronounced SHZESS-off) a tiny bit late, but still plenty of time to enjoy the city for part of the day. As it turned out the hotel offered a free drink voucher. This of course meant a toast to our ancestors.

Walked to the old town city center, where a concert was just breaking up.

Also stopped in at Browar Manufaktura to try their beers.

The “Neepa” as they called it (New England style IPA – NEIPA) was by most standards pretty good.

Manufaktura    |   Czeski Pils   |   Lager, Pilsner, Czech   |   4.9%   |   7.0

Manufaktura    |   American Pale Ale   |   Ale, Pale, American   |   4.4%   |   7.7

Manufaktura    |   Ciemne   |   Lager, Dark   |   5.5%   |   7.0

Manufaktura    |   Rzeszowska Pszenica   |   Ale, Wheat, Hefeweizen   |   ?   |   9.5

Manufaktura    |   Piwo Specjalne Special NEIPA   |   Ale, IPA, New England    |  ?    |   8.0

The standout was the Hefeweizen, it just ticked every box. And the bathroom was hilarious!

We walked around the city a bit more, scoping out what was where. The decided to have dinner at Old Rzeszow Brewery (Rzeszówski) in the Bristol hotel. Some good beers but no real standout.

Rzeszówski    |   Pszeniczny Rzeszówiak   |   Ale, Wheat, Hefeweizen   |   5%   |   7.0

Rzeszówski    |   Pils Staromiejski   |   Lager, Pilsner   |   ?   |   7.0

Rzeszówski    |   American Pale Ale   |   Ale, Pale, American   |   ?   |   7.5

Rzeszówski    |   Ciemne Galicyzjskie   |   Lager, German Dark, Dunkel   |   ?   |   7.2

Food was very good, the pork knuckle had a nice mustard and very strong, fresh horseradish; and the dessert pierogis were exquisite.