Philadelphia 2018

Once again a trip to Philadelphia, the city of Brotherly Love, or as I refer to it the city where you go if you love beer. It’s always had a really good beer scene, and I remember my first trip to Monk’s Café (more about Monk’s later), but now it’s just better and better. And I “had” to be there for a conference I was attending and speaking at.

For semi-regular readers, you know I believe in “beer-Karma” where you don’t necessarily try to find beer, you let it find you. And oh-boy this was a great beer-Karma time.

After arriving May 18 Friday on Amtrak (“the ‘Amtrak’ of rail service”) went to get some lunch. And this is but one example of as much as technology serves us, it’s still limited as compared to a face-to-face palaver. Arrived at this shop that  – according to Yelp – had beer, sandwiches, and table to sit. But when I got there I found there were no tables inside, unlike the Yelp photos from 1996 apparently.

So I went back towards a place I passed earlier: what appeared to be a small wine bar, looked to have food, and discovered the place called Varga. Now to add parenthetically, the name is a variant of “Vargas,” as in “Joaquin Alberto Vargas y Chávez” – the most famous pin-up artist in history.

You know his work, leggy beautiful women, soft pastel colors; paintings you’d find in your uncle’s Esquire magazines. Many young men of that generation went steady with a Vargas picture.

Anyway, walked in and was greeted by Frank, and then saw the draft menu (breweries circled in green have been visited)

And the bottle selection. And the not one but two beer engines (both in use).

Now no one in Philly beats Monk’s, but this is now my #2 beer bar in Philly. And the food was no slouch, had the pork belly BLT, which should receive a Mayor’s commendation.

Tried the following:

Sly Fox  -  Chester County Bitter  -  Ale, Bitter, Dark  -  4.5% ABV -  [score 7.8 / 10.0]

Neshaminy Creek  -  Four Corners barrel aged quad  -  Ale, Belgian Quadrupel Style  -  12%  [ 10.0]

Hardywood  -  Baltic Sunrise  -  Ale, Porter, Baltic  -  9.1 %  [9.4]

So after Beer Karma event #1, did find out from Frank that there was a beer event at the Eagle’s stadium the next day. I wasn’t sure if I was going due to weather and lack of VIP tickets, so I contacted a brewery client to see if they had any tickets. I did get one emailed to me in 2 minutes, so that was set for Saturday.

Frank recommended trying Strangelove’s, as it was on the way back to the hotel.

Not a bad place, far fewer beer selections but the menu looked good. Had a nice chat with one of the locals guys about business and beer.

Tried the:

Licking Hole Creek  -  Heir Apparent  -  Ale, Stout, Imperial  -  11.5 %  [8.7]

Manayunk  -  Kriek  -  Ale, Kriek  -  8 %  [7.5]

DuPont  -  Saison DuPont Biologique  -  Ale, Belgian Saison  -  5.5 %  [8.5]

Went back to the Marriott, and had a beer with dinner.

Personally I cannot fathom (oh, right, distribution channels) why hotels and restaurants in areas with good beer usually just sell the mass-market swill.

Flying Fish  -  Hop Fish IPA  -  Ale, IPA  -  6.2 %  [7.0]

Saturday May 19 was a day I had to teach a 4-hour class (well in truth I DID sign up to do so). I had contacted a brewery client Friday night, and was promised a ticket – one showed up in my email – merci. Now I was debating whether to go, as it was rainy, but I remembered someone saying to me there’s a lot under cover at the stadium. So to the Übermobile.

Arriving at the stadium  - 1 hour after general admission opened – I was dismayed to see a line about ½ block long. So 14 gates, one line (*sigh*). Eventually they opened 2 so the wait was only like 20 minutes [strike 1].

Now inside there was no real attempt to control the flow. As everyone queued up in the first line they saw, that means near the entrance was pandemonium. No room for traffic to flow, lines with no identifiable end [strike 2].

I was a least going to get to the Captain Lawrence booth, which I did.

Never put your beer down when playing Jenga!

As I was walking by one of the guides, this petite little old lady said “what are you doing in line, you have an ‘Ultra-VIP’ wristband” [home run!].

Well that was more like it. Was able to try the following over the course of the afternoon / early evening:

Devils Backbone  -  Gold Leaf trail angel  -  Ale, Wheat, Hefeweizen  -  4.9 %  -  12 IBU  [7.6 / 10.0]

Lost Abbey  -  Devotion Farmhouse   -  Ale, Belgian Farmhouse Style  -  6.8 %  [9.0]

Crowded Castle  -  Sundown  -  Ale, Amber, American  -  5.7 %  [7.5]

2nd Story  -  My Better Hef  -  Ale, Wheat, Hefeweizen  -  5.3 %  [8.5]

2nd Story  -  ¿Qué Hora Es  -  Lager, American LIght  -  5.3 %  27 IBU  [7.0]

Paulaner  -  Oktoberfest Märzen  -  Lager, Märzen/Oktoberfest  -  5.8 %  20 IBU  [7.5]

Blueprint  -  Red Rye Apocalypse  -  Ale, IPA, Rye  -  6.6 %  -  66 IBU  [8.5]
Great Barn  -  Country Girl  -  Ale, Farmhouse, American  -  5.1 %  -  20 IBU  -  [7.5]
Crooked Eye  -  The Brit ESB  -  Ale, Bitter, ESB  [8.5]
USciences  -  Dunkel   -  Lager, German Dark, Dunkel  [6.0]
Funk  -  Citrus IPA   -  Ale, IPA, American  -  6.7 %  -  70 IBU  [7.0]
Schmaltz  -  He'brew Jewbilation 14  -  Ale, Strong, American  -  14 %  [8.0]
Southern Tier  -  Blueberry tart  -  Ale, Wheat, Sour, Fruit  -  8 %  [9.0]
Wacker   -  Bohemian Pilsner   -  Lager, Pilsner, Bohemian  -  4.5 %  [7.0]

Also saw the best beer shirt ever, from Mr. Duck.

Went to Monk’s later at night, and sat in the back bar, as they had a favorite on tap – Pliny the Elder.

When I was at Russian River’s taphouse years ago, it was notably absent, so was able to check that box.Place was busy and John at the bar kept it all running smoothly

Russian River   -  Pliny the Elder  -  Ale, IPA, Double, California  -  8 %  -  100 IBU  [9.5 / 10.0]

Also had the:

De Profbrouwerij  -  Flemish Primitive #3  -  Ale, French Country   -  6.2 %  [9.0]

De La Senne  -  Taras Boulba  -  Ale, Belgian Pale  -  4.5 %  [8.2]

Russian River  -  Blind Pig  -  Ale, IPA, American  -  6.1 %  -  70 IBU  [8.5]

Boon  -  Kriek Marriage Parfait (2013)  -  Ale, Belgian Kriek  -  8 %  [9.5]

The next day - May 20  - Mr. Marty arrived, and brought gifts. Of course.

We went first to Monk's; really had some special ones with a great lunch. Amy was working the front bar and she really knew her stuff.

 And got to have beer 9,700.

Also tried the yeast slurry in water trick; definitely helped this day. Amy seemed fascinated about he biochemistry of the enzyme alcohol dehydrogenase in yeast, and what it does.

Chimay  -  Chimay Blue (Grand Réserve) (2018)  -  Ale, Belgian Tripel  -  9 %  [9.0 / 10.0]

Oud Beersel   -  Oud Geuze Vielle (2014)  -  Ale, Belgian Kriek Lambic  -  6 %  [9.2]  (beer 9,700)

Molen, Brouwerij De   -  Fire, Flood & Plague  -  Ale, Porter, Imperial   -  9.9 % -  36 IBU  [9.5]

Molen, Brouwerij De   -  Rasputin - Cease & Desist  -  Ale, Stout, Russian Imperial  -  10.4 %  [9.0]

The weather was mixed, so we got a ride up to Standard Tap, which was supposed to be a pretty good bar. And besides a good selection, they too have beer engines.

Had met someone at the Eagle’s stadium beer fest the day before who worked here, but they were not working Sunday. Also chatted with a guy who would be going on a business trip to Singapore. Filled him in on several brewpubs in Singapore, such as Level 33 (33rd floor of a skyscraper), and Red Dot Brewhouse, which was next to “whore alley” (which seemed to interest him a lot).

Manayunk  -  IP-Yay!  -  Ale, IPA, Fruit  -  6.2 %  [7.0 / 10.0]

Mishpillion  -  Holy Crap!  -  Ale, Red, Imperial  -  9 %  -  50 IBU  [7.5]

Conshohocken  -  Type A IPA   -  Ale, IPA, English  -  7 %  -  70 IBU  [7.0]

Melvin  -  Hop Shocker  -  Ale, IPA, Imperial  -  8 %  -  95 IBU  [7.5]

We went over to Kraftwerk to try a couple, the only new one was this, but it was a spectacular

Nøgne Ø  -  Dark Horizon 4th edition (2013)  -  Ale, Stout, Imperial  -  16 %  -  100 IBU  [10.0]

Kraftwerk also has the most amazing bathroom accoutrements.

Since one can’t get to Philly every weekend, it was back again to Monk’s the next day, May 21.

To Øl  -  Gose to Hollywood  -  Gose  -  3.8 %  [8.0]

Lost Abbey   -  Devotion  -  Ale, Belgian Blonde Style  -  6.25 %  [8.8]

Verhaeghe  -  Echt Kriekenbier  -  Ale, Belgian Flanders Red  -  6.8 %  [9.0]

Mikkeller   -  Årh Hvad  -  Ale, Belgian Pale  -  7.6 %  [7.5]

Evil Twin  -  Aün Mås Todo Jesüs  -  Ale, Stout, Imperial  -  12 %  [10.0]

Tilquin  -  Quetsche  -  Ale, Belgian Gueuze  -  6.4 %  [9.5]

Westmalle  -  Westmalle Dubbel  (2017) -  Ale, Belgian Trappist Dubbel  -  7%  [8.2]

Westmalle  -  Westmalle Trappist Ale Tripel  (2017)  -  Ale, Belgian Trappist Tripel  -  9.7 %  -  36 IBU  [8.5]

DuPont  -  Foret Organic Saison Moinette Biologique (2017)  -  Ale, Belgian Saison  -  7.5 %  [9.5]

Trappe, La; Koningshoeven  -  La Trappe Quadrupel (2017)  -  Ale, Belgian Abbey Quadrupel  -  10 %  -  40 IBU  [9.5]

Haandbreggereit  -  Norwegian Wood  -  Ale, Smoked  -  6.5 %  [9.5]

Lost Abbey  -  24 Steps  -  Ale, Wild, American  -  6 %  [9.5] (only at Monk’s)

On the 22nd, headed over to 2nd Story Brewing. It was confusing as they were on the 1st floor, but the actual brewery was on the 2nd! Very nice bartender McKenna - anyone who asks first, "do you want some water" is alright in my book.

Tried all their beers, as they offered flights. Of the beers, the Old City is Burning was a standout.

Sweat Equity  -  Ale, Farmhouse, American  -  5.8 %  [9.0]

Black Bull Porter  -  Ale, Porter, American  -  5.4 %  [7.5]

Anniversary Tripel  -  Ale, Belgian Tripel style  -  8.2 %  [8.5]

Old City is Burning  -  Lager, Rauchbier  -  5.9 %  [9.8]

Old City Kölsch  -  Kölsch Style  -  5 %  [5.5]

Fritzie’s Lager  -  Lager, Vienna, Amber  -  4.9 %  [8.0]

Declaration IPA  -  Ale, IPA, American  -  6.5 %  [7.8]

¿Que Hora Es  -  Lager, American  -  5.3 %  [7.0]

My Better Hef  -  Ale, Wheat, Hefeweizen  -  5 %  [8.5]

The Daily Double  -  Ale, IPA, Double  -  8 %  [8.0]

The Kölsch was not. It was a nice drinking beer, but not very Kölsch-like. And get that “beer engine” fed! Also had a first-rate beet and seared Ahi salad for lunch; almost too nice looking to eat.

Spoke to some German tourists, and gave then a can of Treehouse beer to try later (they agreed with the Kölsch assertion, BTW).

As IMHO Varga is the 2nd best beer bar in Philly, there was time to go back to see what was available. Rich was working there today, and shared a few beers back and forth with Rob who was there.

Fat Head’s   -  Alpenglow   -  Lager, Bock, Weizenbock  -  7.5 %  -  19 IBU  [8.5]

Firestone Walker   -  Helldorado  -  Ale, Barleywine, American  -  12.8 %  [9.3]

Firestone Walker  -  Bretta Rose  -  Ale, Wild, American, fruit  -  5.1 %  -  45 IBU  [8.5]

New Holland  -  Dragon's Milk (2017)  -  Ale, Stout, Russian Imperial  -  11 %  -  30 IBU  [9.0]
 

Deschutes Hair of the Dog  -  Collage Conflux 1  -  Ale, Strong, American  -  11.6 %  [9.5]

Clown Shoes   -  The Ballad of Minnie Quay  -  Ale, Old  -  11 %  [8.5]

Free Will  -  Kriek Nouveau  -  Ale, Belgian Kriek style  -  6 %  [9.0]

As part of a function, went to a McGillin’s Old Ale House for some drinks and snacks. Had a couple of their basic lagers on draft.

Tattered Flag  -  Pilsner  -  Lager, Pilsner  -  5 %  -  37 IBU  [7.5]

Stroudts  -  McGillin’s Lager  -  Lager  -  5 %  -  15 IBU  [6.5]

And ended the night – and the trip – with one last stop at Monk’s café.

Grain D’Orge  -  Belzebuth  -  Ale, Barleywine  -  8.5 %  -  2.1 IBU  [8.5]

So a great short visit to Philadelphia, an unplanned beer fest, 69 new beers, and milestone beer #9,700.